I just finished a dynamic duo to add to my summer wardrobe.  Here's New Look 6413 and of course the beloved Blackwood Cardigan by Helen's Closet in a combo that I got really lucky to find.  I've had my eye on this rayon crepe print at Fabricland (my local fabric store in O.C.) and was fortunate to find a dreamy lightweight french terry in a beautiful rose that goes perfectly with the print.  When this happens...you have to bring both fabrics home.

This dress is really simple and perfect for a beginner or anyone that needs a quick project.  It calls for a front bodice zipper which I thought would be odd but actually looks really nice.  It's completely unnecessary for the dress (it would pull over without it) but you would need to put it in for the jumpsuit view.  Since I made this as a sample for the fabric store I included it so people could see the pattern as it's written. 

I don't think anyone needs another Blackwood cardigan review so i won't add one here but I've made 5 now if that says anything about it.  But what I like about this one is the color.  It's not a color I would normally look at but it turns out it goes with so many things in my closet!  I probably have at least 3 other outfits for it.  

Just a quick share today as I've got more dresses in the works.
Happy Sewing,
​Diane

Dresses have been on the cutting table quite a bit lately and here's a new one.  I absolutely love this dress, it's feminine but not too fussy, blue (my fav) and an easy to wear wrap.  And it's swishy!

There are quite a few wrap dress patterns out there and frankly I'd like to try them all but I chose this new Simplicity 8637 (View C in View D length) because I love the flounce.  I made up a quick bodice muslin and I'm really glad I did because although fitting a wrap dress is easier than fitting some dresses, I still needed a few changes.  The bodice darts on this dress are really long!  I shortened both 1 1/4".  I also straightened out the shoulder seam because I have square shoulders (if I don't do this I'll get neckline gaping).  And over the last year or more I've noticed I'm making fitting adjustments that I've never needed before which on this dress I shortened the bodice 3/8" which is brand new for me.  

Overall this is a simple pattern even though it took me quite a while to make.  Of late, projects have taken me longer than usual but I also took extra time pressing and used a pressing cloth on everything to avoid getting any shine from the iron.

I used a navy viscose twill from LA Finch fabrics.  It's a gorgeous fabric and has the perfect drape for the flounce.  I used this same fabric in red for this project.  It's a little bit heavier than a challis and the extra body makes the flounce lay perfectly.  And about that flounce...hemming this flounce is not for anyone in a hurry (if you choose to do a rolled hem) but if you have a serger that does a rolled hem I highly recommend using that.  I did on this dress and I had it hemmed in about 15 minutes including switching the machine.  It's so satisfying!

I've been participating in #Sewfreshsewclean13 and this is my entry this week.  Check it out on Instagram!
More dresses are in the works and I'll share soon.

Happy Sewing, Diane

Reverse bobbin topstitching is stitched from the wrong side of the fabric so when you look from the front you are actually looking at the bobbin thread.  If you load some chunky or interesting thread that might normally be too thick as an upper thread, you can load it in the bobbin and use it.  It can be a thread for hand embroidery or machine...I've used different types.  Here's how to do it:
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Enjoy my friends.  And I'd love to see examples of your stitching!

​Happy Sewing!

​Diane

Well, I really could've used a red blouse back in December but this project didn't all come together for me until February.  So we could look on the bright side and say I got my December 2019 red blouse already finished! And what's even better is I used some beautiful fabric I purchased from LA Finch last year so I'm sewing from my stash.  Ahead of the game stash sewing is a win, win!

This is Butterick 5997, and I've admired the blouses Lori of Girls in the Garden has made with this pattern.  And if it weren't so close to spring (especially here in SoCal) I'd make another one in flannel just like the one she did.  I love this sewing community because would I have ever thought this would be a great pattern for a flannel without Lori's inspiration? We have some creative sewists out there and I'm really glad people take the time to share.

I pretty much made View A except I kept the front length like View B and didn't make the cuffs on the sleeve.  This rayon twill is just too soft to hold a cuff and I like the look without it.  If you're looking for a blouse that's long enough for leggings, this is it.  This is my second collar band blouse in a row (not sure why) and it's not out of my system quite yet as I have a piece of this fabric in navy that I have set aside for a banded collar dress.

 When I sew this again I'll make the shoulder narrower because the sleeve sits just off the shoulder and I think it would look better at the true shoulder line (see above). I suppose I could fix it but am I that bothered by it? All that said, the sleeve is really nicely drafted and popped in easily.  And friends, this blouse is very roomy.  My measurements are very close to a Big 4 size 14 but I find tops fit me much better around the shoulders and neck if I make a 12.  Anyone else do this? Occasionally I will do a small wide back adjustment on a 12 (not on this top) but if I make a 14 it just looks sloppy.  I heard Melissa Watson of McCall's patterns talk about this on the Love to Sew podcast and it just made so much sense!  It was especially important to stay on the smaller side with the loose fit of this top. 

I highly recommend this pattern and will be making it again.  Wouldn't it be a nice basic white blouse?  Do you know I don't have a single white blouse in my closet?  

I have lots more to share as I've been sewing like crazy.  8 Pieces so far this year!

Happy Sewing,
Diane

Sometimes you find yourself in a place you'd never expect or even know is possible.  It’s happened to all of us too many times to count, right?  Well, I’ve found myself over the last few months in just such a place and I’m using sewing to get me through.​

I’m a pattern designer and up until 7 months ago I was also a sewing teacher.  My dream job.  First hand, I was able to see the life changes that come when someone learns how to take a flat piece of cloth and turn it into something.  It can be truly magical!  I’ve seen sewing mend a heart from a broken engagement and give someone who’s no longer a caregiver a sense of purpose.  It’s helped those people who have, like me and maybe you, had a life change.

​2 years ago I started feeling not quite like myself.  It’s actually a long and drawn out story that I won't bore you with but over a period of several months and many doctors, I found myself plagued with vision issues, body weakness, numbness, fatigue, speech problems and difficulty walking and navigating stairs.  My family, friends and students watched me change and I tried to hide my problems but it was getting more and more difficult and scary.  After 16 months of doctors I landed in a brilliant university neurologist’s office and she ran hoards of tests and found I had Lyme disease.  What? Shocking for all of us since they say “Lyme disease doesn't exist in California” which is a dirty lie, by the way, that thankfully my doctor didn’t believe. I was losing my sweet mom to pancreatic cancer at the time of my diagnosis so I put off treatment while I took care of her.  Soon after I said “Goodbye” to my mom, I underwent treatment that cleaned out the Lyme bacteria but left me with additional nerve and muscle damage.  Thankfully, I’m now on my way to recovery with physical and occupational therapy and the help of an army of family and friends.
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This really is going to be about the blouse, I promise.

I can tell you the solution to some of my problems started with this shirt.  Who knew McCalls 7360 would help me climb this hill?  I call this shirt the “Happy Shirt” for obvious reasons, it looks happy.  But really this should be dubbed “The Occupational Therapy Shirt” not as sexy a moniker but certainly accurate.

When I first tried to sew after my treatment, I wasn’t strong enough to cut fabric and could only sit up for a short period of time.  It was discouraging and thus I stayed away from my sewing room.  I had ideas and the desire to sew but it was difficult to bring myself to try.

With my initial sewing failure fresh in my mind, one of my first occupational therapy goals was “to cut fabric.”  I’m not sure my therapist has ever had a patient with that goal but there it was. With practice and by using both hands (and the help of new easier scissors from my thoughtful husband and son) I did it!  Since this went well I decided to really use sewing to help me heal.  My next goal was to make a shirt with a collar.  Don’t you just wonder what my therapist thought? My therapist said “Okay, in how long?  Let’s quantify it.  Don't think about how long it would take the “old Diane” but how long it will take you now.”  “Well, the 'old Diane' would make this in 4-ish hours so the “current Diane” can do it in 8 hours.  I’ll allow myself twice the time.”  I said.  “Great! Keep track of your time and let’s see how it goes.  If it takes you longer it doesn’t matter, just do it.”  She said.

Setting goals has always worked for me and this new goal freed me up to walk into my sewing room, turn on the timer and start.  Somehow this approach separated me from the disappointment of before and the sadness that comes with thinking about what I can’t do anymore and allowed me to move forward.  More than 14 hours later here it is, my goal achieved!  Yes, it took me more than 3 times what it would’ve before and the quality of my work is not the same but the maker in me is alive once again.

My doctor recently said to me when I asked how long it would take me to recover “We aren't going to talk about time, we are only going to talk about progress.”  You can imagine how hard it was for the impatient me to hear that.  But I thought about it for a few days, really digested it and decided to own it. It’s been just about the most helpful thing I’ve heard.  I made something.  That’s progress.  We aren’t going to talk about the time it took.

I’ve physically adapted to so many things and I can adapt my thinking too.  It doesn’t matter how many things I make in a month or how perfect they are, I just need to make progress.  Are you here too?  Have you had a baby and you don’t have time?  Can you find 15 minutes twice a week to make progress?  Did your life change involve moving to a different place and you don’t have room to sew or a job where you work more?  Can you pick up some hand work that will move your skills forward as you work in your kitchen or on your lunch break?

Sewing is a great way to help me get back to me.  I watched it happen in my students and now it’s my turn.

Oh and by the way, I loved this pattern and the butter soft Robert Kaufman corduroy from Fabricland. I made a contrast under placket, tab and collar facing with 1/2 yard of the cotton lawn print.  I even had enough of the floral to bind the sleeve seams so the rolled up sleeve looks finished.  This shirt is a keeper…for so many reasons.

If you made it to the end of this very long blog post, I thank you for taking the time.  It felt good to get it out.

Happy Sewing Friends!

The Dover Jacket just got an update!  Yep, that's right, it's new and improved and ready to add to your wardrobe.  Here are the new features:

-Extended sizing (sizes 4-18)
-Two piece easy to sew sleeves
-Longer 3/4 sleeve
-Two lengths including a car coat length
-Pockets

If you're an advanced beginner and you've never made a coat or jacket, this would be the perfect pattern for you.  It's an easy and quick sew that's a quick wardrobe builder.

If you have already purchased the Dover Jacket and you'd like a copy of the updated version, please email me using the "Email Me" box and I will gladly send it to you.

Happy Sewing!
​Diane

McCall's 7254 has been in my stash for quite a while and for the life of me I can't figure out why I waited so long to make it.  I purchased this super soft French terry from LA Finch fabrics with the idea that I would make a hoodie, but when it came it was a little too soft and lightweight to hold a zipper and this pattern came to mind.  It took a few minutes but I dug around my pattern stash until I found it.  

If you've never made a jacket before then this pattern is for you for a couple of reasons: it's designed for knits so setting in the sleeve is really easy, the collar and peplum are sewn in one circular seam (what could be easier?) and it's quick!  It was start to finish sewing in about 2 hours! If you're new to knits, a ponte knit would be a great (nice and stable) and would be a great weight for the style.

Of course I picked a windy day to take these pics but what do you do? I did end up making a hoodie and I'll be blogging about that soon!

I wanna be your Valentine this year so I'm offering all PDF patterns in the store at 2 for $14 with coupon code BEMINE.  It's only one day!!!!  Offer ends 2/14/18 at midnight PST!  Enjoy!

I'm still riding the "it's the new year and I have so many things I want to make" inspiration train so I thought I'd share not only my new Ally Skirt but also some inspiration.  This skirt is made from a brick red denim from Fabric.com by Art Gallery Fabrics (did I know they made colored denim?) and brass snaps.

The Ally Skirt pattern is an easy and quick pattern to play with.  It comes with 2 pocket options (flap and side seam) but it'd be really easy to add a patch pocket with ruffles (like the aqua cord skirt above) or an oversized pocket with flaps.  I love the idea of adding contrast either by a solid placket on a print skirt or adding a leather border to denim (bottom left) like the $698 Stella McCartney version.  Seriously, why not copy the good stuff and save yourself a few hundred dollars!

Here, I added a decorative machine stitch to the pocket.  And in this version you can see the decorative stitches I added along the seams.

I’m very excited to start the new year with a new pattern!  Say "Hello" to the Coffeehouse Pant! It’s an easy to wear and even easier to sew ankle length pant with front notch pockets and an elastic waist.   It's available today and is on a NEW RELEASE SALE for 20% off here on the website and at Upcraft Club until January 14th!

Let me introduce you...

• Designed for the beginner (a sewist with a couple of projects under the sewing belt but ready to make a first pair of pants) but also a great wardrobe builder for those looking for a "quick sew".
• Versatile style that can be casual or dressed up with a jacket for work.
• NEW EXTENDED SIZING: Sizes 4-18 (because you all wanted a broader size range!)
• Friendly and fully illustrated instructions have stitching lines printed in RED.
• US and Imperial measurements.
• Copy Shop File for large format printing is included.
• $10.00 USD (but on sale for $8.00 now through January 14th).

The Coffeehouse Pant sews up nicely in light to medium weight fabrics ideally with some drape.  Linen, challis, crepe and chambray would all be good choices.  Look at the darling pants Kyla from LifebyKy made out of a soft suiting.  

Grab a copy at 20% off at Upcraft Club and on the BDP website through January 11th!  Don't forget to tag all your makes #Coffeehousepant and #Bluedotpatterns.  Enjoy!