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Details, Details....The Margo Blouse Yoke

9/18/2020

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On my latest project, the Margo Blouse, I added some details to the yoke. The simple and fun to do details make this top special. The yoke on this blouse lends itself to embellishment, decorative stitching, embroidery, lace or contrasting fabric. To this blouse, I added reverse bobbin work to the front and back yoke and hand stitching to the placket.
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Reverse bobbin work is done entirely on the machine. DMC embroidery floss is hand wrapped on the bobbin (all strands)  and regular stitching thread is loaded in the top of the machine. I lengthened my stitch and stitched from the wrong side of the fabric. I have a detailed tutorial here for more details. Here's how to add it to the yoke:
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  • Mark the front and back yoke pattern pieces with the desired design. I taped them together so I could make sure they blended.
  • Place the pattern piece on the wrong side of the uncut fabric. I marked the lines on the fabric with a disappearing pen.
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  • Stitch from the wrong side of the fabric on the stitching lines.
  • Place the pattern piece on the stitched fabric, cut it out and continue constructing the yoke.
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I wanted to add a touch of gold to the yoke so I after I added the mini ricrac, I hand stitched DMC floss around the narrow parts of the ricrac. I've seen lots of pics of embellished ricrac and have been looking for a chance to try it myself. I love the little detail.

I have a Pinterest board with more ideas for the Margo yoke. I'd love to see your makes!

Happy sewing,
Diane
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Margo Blouse - Marfy Remnant Challenge

9/11/2020

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I haven't joined in on a sew a long or sewing challenge in a while (mostly because of time) but the Marfy Remnant Challenge 2020 hosted by Andrea at Sew To Fit, seemed like a fun one to do and came at the perfect time. The rules are simple, choose a pattern and make it up using remnant and scraps. Andrea suggests using a Marfy blouse pattern but I chose to use my Margo Blouse pattern instead. Right away I knew it would be the right pattern to adjust for using small scraps of fabric.
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I made an epic mess in my sewing room when I pulled out my scraps, but early on I realized I had PLENTY of scraps to work with (oddly shaped but workable) and probably enough to make two projects. I didn't purchase anything to make this blouse and even used bits of vintage trim and left over DMC embroidery floss to finish it. All scraps were from previous garments:
  • Yoke- Liberty print from a peplum blouse for my daughter. (We Are Fabrics, LA)
  • Placket - Silk twill that was used for a feminine shell.  (Parons, New York) 
  • Center Panel - Cotton challis from a most loved Maxi dress. (Mood, New York)
  • Side Panel and Back - Rayon challis from pants. This scrap is the oldest (from the late 90's!) and I believe came from Britex in San Francisco (but who really knows.)
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The style of the Margo Blouse really lends itself to a project like this and here are the changes I made, mostly to accommodate the small scraps I had:
  • Split the yoke front and added a placket and trim.
  • Split the front bodice piece into 3 parts.
  • Left off the sleeve (I didn't have the fabric) but added a small ruffle at the top of the armhole.
The yoke is my favorite part of the blouse. I added some reverse bobbin work to the front and back and added a simple stitch to the ric rac on the placket. I'll add a post about how I detailed the yoke next week.
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I thoroughly enjoyed this project as it felt good to use up these well loved fabrics and create something from pieces that would otherwise go to waste. I encourage you to check out Andrea's other entries and maybe try to make one yourself!

More next week!

​Diane
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How to Enclose a Yoke Without Hand Sewing!

9/1/2020

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Today I have a video that I hope will make your life a whole lot easier. I'm working on a sleeveless version of the Margo Blouse for the MarfyRemnantChallenge sew along hosted by SewToFit. It's been a fun project that I've made entirely of scraps from my scrap box. 

I've made a few changes to the pattern to make if work for my scraps including splitting the front yoke and making it sleeveless. The video illustrates a technique that allows you to enclose the armhole seam without sewing. It's a fun and satisfying! 

I will share more about the project soon! 
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    About Me

    Hi!  I'm Diane, a wife, mom, sewing teacher and pattern designer from sunny Southern California.  I share my sewing adventures here on the Blue Dot Blog formerly Gatorbunnysews.  For more info click here.

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