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Elevate Your Sewing: Reverse Bobbin Topstitching

3/25/2019

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I'm happy to share with you a topstitching technique I use quite often in my sewing. I used it here on my Coffeehouse Pants both on the pocket and on the hem (see below).  This is one of those sewing tricks that I've shared in my sewing classes and people don't believe that it actually works because it sounds too easy!  Although reverse bobbin work is something we often see in quilting or "art to wear", I think it's perfect for everyday garment sewing and it's a whole lot of fun for something so quick and easy.
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Reverse bobbin topstitching is stitched from the wrong side of the fabric so when you look from the front you are actually looking at the bobbin thread.  If you load some chunky or interesting thread that might normally be too thick as an upper thread, you can load it in the bobbin and use it.  It can be a thread for hand embroidery or machine...I've used different types.  Here's how to do it:
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  1. Hand wind embroidery floss on a machine bobbin (I used all 6 strands of DMC hand embroidery floss but you can choose your own).
  2. Load bobbin into machine just as you would for regular sewing.
  3. Load needle thread with normal machine thread (the needle thread will show through to the front as a "couching" effect so matching or contrasting thread works.  I used white as a contrast here).
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  1. Adjust stitch length (longer stitch length gives you a thicker look and shorter stitch looks more delicate).
  2. Stitch from wrong side of garment.
  3. Turn over and marvel!
Here are some more examples of bobbin work:
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Enjoy my friends.  And I'd love to see examples of your stitching!

​Happy Sewing!

​Diane
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Collar Band Blouse - Butterick 5997

3/15/2019

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Well, I really could've used a red blouse back in December but this project didn't all come together for me until February.  So we could look on the bright side and say I got my December 2019 red blouse already finished! And what's even better is I used some beautiful fabric I purchased from LA Finch last year so I'm sewing from my stash.  Ahead of the game stash sewing is a win, win!
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This is Butterick 5997, and I've admired the blouses Lori of Girls in the Garden has made with this pattern.  And if it weren't so close to spring (especially here in SoCal) I'd make another one in flannel just like the one she did.  I love this sewing community because would I have ever thought this would be a great pattern for a flannel without Lori's inspiration? We have some creative sewists out there and I'm really glad people take the time to share.
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I pretty much made View A except I kept the front length like View B and didn't make the cuffs on the sleeve.  This rayon twill is just too soft to hold a cuff and I like the look without it.  If you're looking for a blouse that's long enough for leggings, this is it.  This is my second collar band blouse in a row (not sure why) and it's not out of my system quite yet as I have a piece of this fabric in navy that I have set aside for a banded collar dress.
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 When I sew this again I'll make the shoulder narrower because the sleeve sits just off the shoulder and I think it would look better at the true shoulder line (see above). I suppose I could fix it but am I that bothered by it? All that said, the sleeve is really nicely drafted and popped in easily.  And friends, this blouse is very roomy.  My measurements are very close to a Big 4 size 14 but I find tops fit me much better around the shoulders and neck if I make a 12.  Anyone else do this? Occasionally I will do a small wide back adjustment on a 12 (not on this top) but if I make a 14 it just looks sloppy.  I heard Melissa Watson of McCall's patterns talk about this on the Love to Sew podcast and it just made so much sense!  It was especially important to stay on the smaller side with the loose fit of this top. 
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I highly recommend this pattern and will be making it again.  Wouldn't it be a nice basic white blouse?  Do you know I don't have a single white blouse in my closet?  

I have lots more to share as I've been sewing like crazy.  8 Pieces so far this year!

Happy Sewing,
Diane
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    About Me

    Hi!  I'm Diane, a wife, mom, sewing teacher and pattern designer from sunny Southern California.  I share my sewing adventures here on the Blue Dot Blog formerly Gatorbunnysews.  For more info click here.

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