 I've got something really different (at least for me) today on the blog! A tiered Margo Dress! I've been so inspired by the tiered Margo hack Michelle did in her Sew News article (if you haven't picked it up at the bookstore...there's still time) I decided to give Margo a new spin myself! Lot's of new elements here and hopefully some inspo for your spring and summer sewing. Gathers, full sleeves and a southwest print from Mood Fabrics all together give a brand new feel to my dearly loved, and often used Margo pattern.  I took the Margo pattern with long sleeves, added an elastic waist and a tiered skirt and finished it off with inset pockets and embroidery floss topstitching. Here's a quick low down so you can make your own!
It really is easy (let's face it, we're really only adding rectangles for tiers) and here's how I did it step by step (wow, my brain queued up "Step by Step" by New Kids On The Block!):
And for some fun I used dusty aqua embroidery thread, using this method, at the yoke and each tier. It really separated the tiers and added to the boho feel.  I can tell you the hardest and most time consuming thing about this project was the pattern matching! The cutting took a whole lot longer than the sewing!. I bought a swatch first (in a different colorway) and liked the print but decided on this color instead. It came as quite a surprise to me when this fabric came and the scale was so much LARGER than the swatch! We need a challenge every now and again, right?
Another Margo hack is coming next. Stay tuned and grab the Margo Blouse pattern for just $7.80 in the shop! More to come.... Diane
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 This fall I released the updated Margo Blouse and had some fun making new versions for my closet. Ruffles made their debut on the yoke of the Margo Blouse and to add to the fun I made the New Dover Jacket in pink! Although I've made both of these patterns many times, these pieces both have something special something that makes them new.
Adding ruffles to the Margo has been on my list for quite a while. My inspiration board is full of photos with inspiration for adding ruffles without adding too much frill. After lots of experimentation I landed on adding ruffles around the entire yoke, both front and back.
Here's how I did it: For a 5/8" finished ruffle, I cut 2 strips of fabric 2 1/4" wide by the width of my fabric, pieced them together, folded and pressed the strip in half lengthwise. Ran 2 rows of basting stitches, and pulled on the bobbin threads and gathered the entire strip. Constructed the yoke and facing and basted them together around the perimeter. Basted gathered ruffle to outer edge of yokes. Continued constructing blouse.  It got a little bit bulky at the corner so I did lots of grading, trimming and pressing to get everybody to lay flat. I used a poly crepe which isn't typically responsive to the iron, but I persisted and used the iron in combination with my wood clapper (if you're unfamiliar you can check one out here) and I'm happy with the finished product.  Let's face it, I can't pass up corduroy let alone wide wale pink cord. This is dreamy soft with a bit of a distressed texture and I would imagine it's just going to get softer with wear. I made the long version of the Dover Jacket and added large vintage buttons. I've worn this with the ruffle Margo blouse and also a simple t-shirt and scarf. I think it will get lots of wear this spring on crisp days. The roomy pockets are one of my favorite features on this jacket as they hold everything I need for a quick jaunt out. I didn't topstitch this version because I wanted to live with it first, but now I think I will go back and add some about 2" in around the neck and front.  Happy Sewing my friends and may this year bring you all the good things!
Diane  I fell in love with this fabric when I saw it on Mood Fabric's website and it's in a color I've never worn before. Butterscotch! I can't pass up butterscotch pudding, candies or my mom's butterscotch chip cookies (she was magical in the kitchen...and everywhere else for that matter) so it's only logical for me to grab this fabric too.
I made view B of the Margo Blouse in this rayon crepe that has a texture something like a bark cloth. It's drapes like crepe which makes it perfect for the Margo and because it has some texture it was easy to work with since it didn't slide around too much.  It was perfect for Thanksgiving and fall but it will also work well in the spring with a creamy sweater or denim jacket. This will get lots of wear!
Keep sewing my friends! Diane Today I have a video that I hope will make your life a whole lot easier. I'm working on a sleeveless version of the Margo Blouse for the MarfyRemnantChallenge sew along hosted by SewToFit. It's been a fun project that I've made entirely of scraps from my scrap box. I've made a few changes to the pattern to make if work for my scraps including splitting the front yoke and making it sleeveless. The video illustrates a technique that allows you to enclose the armhole seam without sewing. It's a fun and satisfying! I will share more about the project soon!  Once it starts creeping into the 90's here, I begin dreaming of summer shift dresses (check out my Summer Frock Pinterest Board), The ideal dress is comfortable in the heat, versatile enough to work in (water plants, sew and run errands too) and look good enough to go out to dinner because let's face it, who wants to cook when it's this hot?! Enter the Margo Dress!  As many of you know, one of my goals as a pattern designer is to create versatile patterns that can be used over and over. It's so much easier to start with a base pattern that you know works and use it as a jumping off point for creative and unique pieces. The Margo Blouse is one such pattern.  I used 2 yards of iridescent linen from my stash and coordinating DMC embroidery floss for the contrast stitching. Here are the changes I made:
That's it! Making the dress shorter or adding tiered ruffles would also make a beautiful romantic dress for the summer. Embroidery or lace added to the yoke would make a fun, bohemian feel. So many options! I have a Margo Blouse Pinterest board for even more ideas.
Happy Sewing, Friends! Diane  Here's my first make for fall, a new Margo Blouse. Actually, it isn't the first thing I made for fall but it's the first I'm sharing. There are quite a few things I've already made and even started wearing but I just haven't had a chance to photo.  I bought this floaty cotton/silk voile at The Fabric Store in LA back in July. It has tiny block printed birds on it which make it whimsical without being over the top. This is view B without the placket but I added 5 mismatched vintage buttons. Anytime I can add buttons I do...it's such an obsession.  I'm happy to announce I'll be teaching a Margo Blouse Class Saturday, November 5th at Fabricland in Orange, California. I keep the class sizes small so we can get lots done and still have a good time. Contact Fabricland to sign up. Since teaching is one of my favoriteist things to do, I'd love to see you there!  What are you making for fall?
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About MeHi! I'm Diane, a wife, mom, sewing teacher and pattern designer from sunny Southern California. I share my sewing adventures here on the Blue Dot Blog formerly Gatorbunnysews. For more info click here. 
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